Sunday , February 17 2019
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Whats the best leader for Pike fishing?! Fluorocarbon VS Titanium VS Steel

Please remember this is just my opinion and is no way the only opinion, I just get asked to do this video a lot so I have!

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Quick video talking about pike fishing leaders, explaining which ones I chose to use the most and why.

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8 comments

  1. ill have to give my two takes on this tbh its a hard topic, all comes down to the personal preferences and experience. ive used the 7strand steel, coated uncoated, ect all the varietys and its pretty good for most applications other than big jerkbaits it does get a big caught up, downside is that is kinks super easy. Titanium, best material you can buy in terms of durability and kink-resisitance, works for all applications, great for softs and jerkabits, little expensive but I mean you will most likely get 5-8 leaders a spool that can easily last a year or two, only downside I find is that it is harder to tell damage on such leaders and also if you chin a lot of fish wrapping any wire around ur hands or grabbing it is a bit hard and can be a bit dangerous. Now the juicy bit fluoro and mono , yes mono. fluoro ive used in 80lb, even has a stinger, no problems , found it a little too limp for some of my jerkbaits but still a perfect material, seems to displace more water and more boyant so can work lures at a slightly higher depth with slower sink and can feel soft lures wriggle a bit better as the leader moves and displaces water. I saw people get bit off on pike fight 2017, yes using 80lb and it put me off. however ive used 130lb and its perfect, flawless really, just hard to get a hold off and I lost the one leader I got from a friend. So I went to try some 150lb Berkley trielene mono, at 1.2mm diameter, it is softer and more boyant than fluoro, still id say a abrasion resisitance equal to maybe 100lb fluroro, works just as well as 80lb fluoro, jerkbaits suspend a little longer than fluoro and have a little more buoyancy, soft lures seem to work a little higher up , apart from that no difference, I prefer mono/fluoro mainly because I can grap it in the water, I find it a lot nicer to use in terms of feel, easy to make on the bank, cheap and the main reason, I can see the frays, I know when to change, to retye, it gives me that 100% certainty in my leaders. At the end of the day as long as you are 100% with ur tackle

    • good bit of a insight there mate, thanks! Pinned 👍

    • Agreed, I've only just started lure fishing since our trout season closed in September, but I've been fishing other techniques for many seasons. I've always thought that finding a trusted brand of f-carbon is difficult for flyfishing etc.so I've tended to use mono. I was advised on some good f-carbon by my tackle shop, but max dia was 30 for 20lb bs. So I have made up traces in Ti/Drennan 7 strand and solid stainless. As stated above, the trace material can be selected to to the action of the lure- eg I found casting and retrieving a floating buster jerk in the margins on a flexi trace did not achieve the depth I was aiming for, the solid ss trace works it spot on. My flyfishing now is "euro nymphing" the top anglers at this method advise using f-carbon as it sinks faster, fine-if using leaded tungsten headed nymphs in 4-6 feet of fast water, but I have to use size 16/18 in 2-3 feet and f-carbon is too stiff for the nymphs to fish correctly, so I use mono, and I found f-carbon tricky to knot in the diameters I use-so as above, its got its place as long as long as it works on your waters and you select the correct dia and can find a trusted brand.

    • 0.30 for 20lb bs-I was talking out of my rear end, it was 0.30 for 6.5 kg -too light for traces.

  2. Fished with a coated wire trace yesterday, changed it coz in my river it really stood out, where as standard wire and Ti don't.
    Think the summary to this is that one material is no better than others, but it depends on what lures you are fishing, head of fish in your waters, fishing pressure where you fish, snags or no snags, rocky bed or silty bed and so on. Having seen the info on strengths of fc and knots used here, I'd use it-before I wouldn't because I have not seen heavy duty fc. Think the bottom line is, all trace materials are good, some maybe better for some situations, some may be more convenient in that they last longer-but all terminal tackle should be checked and replaced regularly whatever materiel it is ?. As a novice to fc for traces, I would check around to make sure I get a trusted brand, I'll probably get some Savage Gear stuff to start as I rate their kit-only downside to Savage Gear is having to shout BAM!! every time you get a fish people think you are nuts coz its POW! for pike and ZAP! for zander BAM! is for bass and bream.

  3. Yesssss another video👍🎣

  4. Some research https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KK83lMfc9FY too light fc there. Lure and leader choice:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWOOTotayXQ 100lb fc leader make up, looks like the stuff of my strimmer, hard to believe some thing that thick is "invisible" in clear water but anyway, 60- 100lbs looks to be the range you should use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXjYbaYCBFA"lasts longer" is not something I buy in to, if you have caught 2/3pike or pulled out of a couple of snags, then I would change the leader, and if I used fc, I would attach the trace to the mainline by snap not a knot-this make its easier to change the trace and not get lazy.

  5. when my fluro is bend i use a leather glove end rub it til its warm or i hold it in the steam of a water boiler and stretch it it will be straight

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